DAYS

11

HIGH POINT

890 Mt

TREKKER

Pietro Ienca
Luigi Chiurchi

Out of time and space

Over the past few years, archipelagos have been a recurring feature of our expeditions. Canaries, Sao Tomé and Príncipe, the Aeolian Islands. Names that evoke an imagination made up of nature and silent landscapes, long horizons following the line of the seas, paths furrowed by time and wind. In this respect, our last trip took us for 11 days to special places. Not in an archipelago per se, but even in an archipelago complex, consisting of five large land groups. Without fear of contradiction, this is one of the last remaining terrestrial Edens: the islands of Tahiti.

Let us start with some names and numbers, which help us to understand the first coordinates. Society Islands (divided in turn into Windward Islands and Leeward Islands), Marquesas Islands, Austral Islands, Gambier Islands and Tuamotu Islands. All together they make up a necklace of 118 islands, better known as French Polynesia. The atolls are spread over such a wide distance that they encompass three different time zones.

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What impressed us most?

The aim of this trip was to try to breathe in the most authentic soul of the islands of Tahiti. Not an easy affair, since they represent some of the most sought-after tourist destinations in the entire oceanic area. Over the centuries they have seen the passage of explorers and artists (how can we forget Paul Gauguin and his famous paintings), imposing themselves in the collective imagination as exotic lands by definition. Yet it is still possible. In our travels, what we always try to do is to take responsibility for living and behaving like our hosts, like the indigenous peoples. That is, eating like them, moving as much as possible like them, listening to their stories and above all delving into the situations and traditions that characterise the places.

During the itinerary, we were strongly moved by the nature hosted by the archipelagos, but above all by the conformation that some of the islands have taken on. From a strictly photographic point of view, it allowed us to capture some peculiar viewpoints, with low clouds that seemed to play with rocky spires hundreds of metres high.

One aspect that certainly strikes one when one is in Tahiti, Papeete or Niku Hiva, is that feeling of being at the end of the known world, a dimension outside time and space. Probably the fact of being literally at the antipodes with respect to Italy has influenced this sense of alienation, which at times is very pleasant. Another interesting element to note is the distance between one group of islands and another. In this sense, internal flights are an essential mode of travel.

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A brief account of the trip

We started our trip in Raiatea, one of the main islands of the Leeward Islands, where we visited the Taputapuatea Marae, an ancient sacred site that has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This site transported us back in time, letting us breathe in an atmosphere where the natural, the spiritual and the purely human dimensions mingle with ease.

From Raiatea, we then headed to Tahaa, famous for its production of vanilla, rum and black pearls. Here we had the opportunity to visit a vanilla plantation, taste the local rum and observe first-hand the cultivation of the precious black pearls, a symbol of Polynesia. Each stop was an opportunity to discover the local flavours and traditions that make these islands so unique.

A truly memorable experience was sailing on board a Va’a, a traditional Polynesian catamaran canoe. Mastered by a local expert, this boat allowed us to explore the area in an authentic way, enjoying the tranquillity of the crystal-clear waters, populated by extreme biodiversity.

Our journey then took us to the Marquesas Islands, a wild and remote place where we had some of the most exciting experiences. At Nuku Hiva, we reached a vantage point from where we could observe whales swimming in the surrounding waters. During these central stops we also had the opportunity to catch a glimpse of an imperial pigeon from the Marquesas; this is an endangered species of which very few specimens exist today.

At the village of Hatiheu, however, we met Steve, a local resident, who took us on a horseback tour through the breathtaking landscape of Nuku Hiva. The experience became even more special when he performed a Marquesan dance under a 700-year-old tree. One of the most iconic moments ever.

On our journey through the island of Anaho, we were surprised by the primordial nature that characterises this corner of paradise. The imposing mountains and lush vegetation made us feel as if we had stepped onto a film set, with scenery that seemed straight out of Jurassic Park.

Also worth mentioning without a shadow of a doubt was Ua Pou, an island that we reached in a compact plane (with only ten seats), enjoying the flight over breathtaking views. Ua Pou welcomed us with its rock towers, which, thanks to the evening light, were painted in incredible colours, merging with the sky in a surprising way. The story goes that here, at the time of the arrival of the Europeans, all the local clans were still united under the command of a single king, unique in the archipelago.

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The result of this expedition turned out to be a surprise

Yes! At the end of January 2025, we had the honour of inaugurating in Turin the first photography exhibition with unpublished shots by Luigi Chiurchi, entitled: The Islands of Tahiti – The Primordial Soul.

The images on display are the fruit of this itinerary, realised in collaboration with Tahiti Tourisme, the national tourist promotion agency of French Polynesia. The photographs seek to capture the magic and authenticity of the archipelago, between breathtaking landscapes and moments of local life, offering an intimate and profound look at one of the most fascinating destinations on the planet.

One of the main objectives of Luigi’s shots was to show the most authentic and wild face of French Polynesia, going beyond traditional tourist images. The scenes on display investigate little-known places in the archipelago, including the Marquesas Islands, capturing the unspoilt beauty and the more genuine side of these faraway lands. Using Leica cameras, Chiurchi has managed to capture the moment in images that speak of nature, culture and everyday life, far from clichés and close to the most authentic reality.

The exhibition will be open until 31 March 2025 at the Leica Store in Turin (Via Carlo Alberto 47).

Thanks are due to those who made all this possible: Tahiti Tourisme for organisational support, Leica Camera for the photographic equipment that now accompanies all our best adventures, and Air Tahiti Nui, who with professionalism and great willingness supported us in the travel and ‘conception’ of the itinerary.